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David Rabenau

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David Rabenau is a Certified Missouri Home Energy Auditor

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Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design Accredited Professional (LEED® AP).
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BPI Certified Professional:
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Archive for July, 2010

Common Misconceptions: Window BS

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

Window Building Science or just plain window BS? You decide. A lot of home energy auditors feel that windows are over-sold, meaning that the typical window salesman exaggerates the benefits of new windows. Let’s run some numbers and you can decide, because in truth, like most things in building science, it all depends on the specifics.

For our example, we are going to use a 36” x 60” window, or 15 square feet. We’re also going to assume that our example home has an 80 AFUE natural gas furnace, meaning roughly that it runs at 80% efficiency. The home also has an air conditioning unit for cooling with an efficiency of 13 SEER, the federal minimum standard. The 80 AFUE furnace is probably about average and the 13 SEER A/C is probably a little better than most installed units. (Those homeowners in rural areas who have electric heat are going to have heating savings substantially higher than what we calculate below.) Further, we’re going to pretend this house is in St. Louis, Missouri (so it has 4900 HDD and 1527 CDD). So now we’re ready to go.

Let’s say we have an old single glazed wood frame window and we purchase a brand new ENERGY STAR replacement window for it. Uninstalled we could expect to pay about $109 for the new window. Remember, that’s uninstalled. Given the assumptions we made above, we can expect to save about $9.92 in heating costs and about $16.36 in cooling costs annually. In other words, that may not be a bad investment, especially if the windows are leaky and the installation cost wasn’t too exorbitant. By “leaky” here I mean air leakage since if they leaked water they’d probably have been replaced long ago – or should have been.

But most of us don’t have old single glazing type windows alone. They probably had storm windows added to them a long time ago, and that presents a completely different scenario. Replacing a single glazed window that has a storm window with a new ENERGY STAR replacement window (same price), we might expect to save only $3.14 in heating costs and $5.18 in cooling costs annually. It’s going to take some time then to pay off that new window. Now, if this is the meager savings I get with a single glazed window with a storm, you can pretty much assume that if you have an old double-glazed window which a window salesman is trying to get you to replace, that your savings wouldn’t be any better.

Ok, ok – let’s say we did have an old single glazed window without a storm. It would cost us about $46.00 to purchase a storm window for it (uninstalled again). Once installed we could expect it to save us $6.78 in heating costs and $11.18 in cooling costs annually. Wow! But, true, there is the hassle of putting them up and taking them down each year if you are so inclined to do so.

So that’s window building science in a nutshell. Given the savings above, it’s probably better to spend the window money for energy efficiency upgrades elsewhere in the home. But not always. There are some situations where new windows is a very good investment.

And finally, for those of you engineering types who just can’t put your pencils down, I’m using $1 for the cost of a natural gas therm and $0.086 for the cost of kWh (read this and weep, Californians). The U-values used for the window examples above are:

.9 – Single glazed wood frame

.3 – ENERGY STAR qualified window

.49 – Single glazed with storm window

That should be all you need to check my calculations.

Common Misconceptions: How Big Is Your A/C?

Wednesday, July 7th, 2010

I remember getting a haircut once when I was a boy and how the barber bragged and bragged at how big his rooftop air conditioner was. It was long ago, and so I don’t remember much other than that – only the blast of cold air streaming out of the supply register. He probably told everyone how many tons it was. Believe it or not, I do seem to remember it cycling on and off a lot.

The lesson today: don’t listen to your barber when getting an air conditioner. Bigger (than needed) is not better. It’s actually worse, and here’s why.

Air conditioning cooling has two components. It removes both sensible heat – that is, the air temperature, the heat you measure with a thermometer – and it removes latent heat. Latent heat is the heat energy stored in the air’s water vapor. We all know it takes heat to create steam. But once vaporized, that heat doesn’t just disappear, it is held by the water vapor in the air. In fact, in places like St. Louis (where “St.” stands for “Steamy”) a big part of what an air conditioner does is remove that humidity. If an air conditioner is sized too big, it cools the sensible heat down fairly quickly. The thermostat then switches off, but more times than not, it didn’t remove much moisture from the air because not enough air circulated through the duct work and over the air conditioning coils long enough. Walking into a home with an oversized air conditioner sometimes feels like you’re walking into a cave: cool, yes, but clammy. An air conditioner actually needs to run long enough for the water vapor in the air to condense on the coils. If it’s two big, it cycles on and off before it can do that.

In fact, on a really hot day, a correctly-sized air conditioner will run almost all the time.

Unfortunately, most air conditioning units are too big for the homes. Why? There are all sorts of reasons. Larger units cost more and so make more for the HVAC company. HVAC companies want to make sure you don’t call them back out because your house is too warm, and so that fudge some oversizing in. And, so on and so forth…

If you’re in the market for a new air conditioner, request that the HVAC company do a “Manual J” and show you their calculations. A Manual J is the industry standard method of determining how much cooling you home will need (both in sensible and latent heat). If they don’t want to do that, then move on to another HVAC company. (Plus, the Manual J already includes a calculation for those really, really hot days.)

The benefits are many. Properly sized units cost less than units that are too large. The home is more comfortable. They cool more efficiently. They need less fan power so there’s an electric and equipment savings there, too.

So, no Manual J, no business. It’s as simple as that.